22 September - am

No polar bear encounters for me as I didn't go on yesterday's afternoon excursion due to grumbly guts.  Those who went enjoyed it but  there was some drama relaunching a couple of zodiacs for the return journey as incorrect tidal information left them literally stuck in the mud.  A channel had to be dug out by crew and willing passengers to get them back to the water.  This totally eclipsed Kasper's motor not starting, so he was left with some dignity in the end.  Unless it was his zodiac which was stuck in the mud of course; I should check that.

When everyone was back on board and cleaned up,  we all gathered in the lounge for the usual pre-dinner drinks.  Unfortunately the lovely bartender was required elsewhere for an hour or so, leaving some thirsty passengers.  I made a deal with my new German friend, who's name I cannot remember, that if he reached over the bar and acquired the corkscrew, I'd donate the bottle of red I had in the cabin.  (When I first arrived in my cabin,  there were two complimentary bottles of wine, along with a few chocolates, tea and coffee provisions and bathrobes.   I had assumed it was the same in all cabins, but it seems only the cabins sporting two windows receive such treats. Yay, me!)

So the deal was struck, he stole the corkscrew, I grabbed the wine from the cabin, ventured behind the bar for glasses and our happy hour began.  He was amazed that a) I had received complimentary wine and b) was willing to share.  His cabin mate quickly downed his cup of tea and  also joined us, along with the lovely Arkline who I have dined with a few times.  We did receive some unhappy looks from the surrounding thirsty souls, so clearly whomever else received complimentary wine had either scoffed it already or was not sharing.

Last night's dinner was a BBQ on deck, with some disco lights, music and dancing.  Too cold for me and I retired soon after dinner, but apparently quite a few kicked on.

This morning we are at Jytte Havn, Bjorneoer, 3 degrees, fog and drizzle.  I've chosen to stay aboard again this morning due to dodgy stomach, but hopefully the meds will kick in in time for me to go on this afternoon's excursions to Sydkap.  At Sydkap we are apparently expecting "tundra vegetation, nice views and large icebergs".  If they mean as opposed to the not-large? icebergs we've seen already, it will be astonishing.  I still can't quite believe I am here, anchored in Arctic waters, surrounded by mountains, mist and magnificent icebergs.

All of the guides have impressive academic, journalistic, photography qualifications and most biographies seem to centre around "so then I did a polar trip and I've never left".  I am already making mental notes of adjustments I need to make to my wardrobe and photographic choices for the next polar adventure, so start saving Miss Sam.